[All pictures are courtesy of Norbert Ruckel]
The Green Strip
While the vast majority of the border barrier system was
disassembled in the first years following reunification, the track of land that
once held the fences remains a permanent feature snaking across Germany. In the
urban areas, the old line has been blurred although if you know where to look,
the barrier can easily be imagined. The farm fields still hold a few indicators
but as the crops breathlessly sweep across the land it all seems to merge into
an rolling sea of peaceful green. Was that a control road or just another
farmer's path?
It is where the German forests were cut for the barrier
system that the border can most easily be recalled. Spectacular pine forests
suddenly end and then begin again a hundred meters further along. From both the
ground and the air, the " green strip " is clearly visible.
Every now and then, parts of the old barrier system can
be found. They remain where either the funds ran out or where the local
population wanted a physical reminder of the past. There was some debate as to
whether the border trace should have been completely cleared. In Germany, where
the past and the present walk closely together, they decided this part of their
past was too terrible to bury. There were lessons to learn and always new
generations to teach.
Norbert Ruckel provided the images, all from the former
Eaglehorse sector. Writing for the Daily Telegraph newspaper in London, Hannah
Cleaver brings us up to speed on the impact of the border strip and modern
German culture:
German death strip starts fresh life as a nature
sanctuary
By Hannah Cleaver on the old 'Iron Curtain'
(Filed: 04/08/2003)
The huge stretch of the Iron Curtain that separated East
and West Germany for four decades is to become a nature reserve. The inner
German border, as it was known, abounded with movement sensors, minefields, dog
patrols and watchtowers all wrapped up in seemingly endless thick fencing.
Around 38,000 border guards, roughly one for each 40 yards, patrolled its
length, ready to shoot dead anyone trying to cross it. Now the 68 square miles
stretched along 866 miles is to be a haven for wildlife.
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The Winter desert
across the former border area. |
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Silence and the remains
of a tower and gate system. The concrete DDR marker has long lost
its plaque but the recognizable colors remain for now. |
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Pieces of land, some as narrow as 30 yards, others as
wide as 1,000 yards, have been reclaimed by the owners from whom it was
confiscated. The German government has sold other packages for agricultural use.
But after years of lobbying by conservationists, Hans Eichel, Germany's finance
minister, has decided to give the rest of the land to the five relevant federal
states for nothing.
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A perfect view of the
green strip. |
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You know ... it is
really a wonderful place to walk. |
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... and you can walk
for a very long way. |
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With wildlife protection lying in the remit of the
states, the way has been cleared for the enactment of protection laws. Four of
the states have already signed up to the idea, and the last is expected to
follow suit soon. Ironically, the instruments of terror which kept people from
the border also preserved the land, a haven for species unable to survive in
farmland.
Dr Liana Geidezis, leader of the Green Band project
which has helped to coordinate efforts to secure the land, said: "There are many
species which live there on Germany's red list of threatened species including
the fish otter, the black stork, red-backed shrike and many species of orchids.
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Nothing but the wind
... |
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The gate is closed now
... you may just walk around! |
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"The curious thing also is that it is less polluted than
the surrounding land. Herbicide was used to keep the strip clear of foliage,
allowing patrols to drive up and down it. But this was less than the fertilizers
and other chemicals which were used on either side of the border by farmers.
"And there was no industry for at least three miles on
the eastern side of the border - it was not allowed. On the western side very
little industry was built as no one wanted to be so close to the border."
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We have left our tower
and have found new careers. Have you visited my shop in Erfurt? |
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I have lost contact
with the other towers in my sector. |
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The Green Band hopes to extend the scheme all the way
along the Iron Curtain to the Adriatic, but is hampered by the fact that outside
Germany the division remains an official border.
Within Germany the former frontier is still remarkably
visible. Although the fences and watchtowers have gone, the concrete patrol
tracks are still there, amid lush foliage. In places the variety of plant and
insect life is astounding - the flowers look as if they should be bowed under
the weight of butterflies while deer take shelter in the quiet.
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Through the forest and
then into the farm fields. The green strip is a "super highway" for
all manner of wildlife. |
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The spur where OP
Sierra / Tennessee once stood. The fence ran just along the bottom
of this feature. |
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The state of Thuringia has the largest share of the
border, 474 miles of it, and was the first to accept Mr Eichel's offer. (Eaglehorse
sector )
Stefan Baldus, state secretary in the agriculture
ministry, said the state intended to combine conservation with memorial sites,
such as a museum at Schifflersgrund which has maintained a small length of
original fencing complete with a watchtower. The man working there spent his
childhood in the shadow of the border, within the three-mile zone where all
residents had a special stamp in their passports and relatives had to get passes
to visit.
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The deer cross the open
areas wary of hunters. |
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I am reporting new
construction in the former border area and will continue to observe.
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"At one stage the government moved out a load of people
who were not considered trustworthy enough to live so close to the border," he
said, declining to give his name out of ingrown East German caution.
Commemoration of those whose lives were wrecked, and
taken, by the border is made at the West-East Gate near Duderstadt, opened by
Mikhail Gorbachev, the former Soviet leader, last June.
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They had orders to
shoot the fellow Germans! Can you imagine that? Come, lets go home
now. |
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The remains of the
Soviet radar base at Grossgleichberg and the new TV tower on the
hill. |
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Two giant oak trunks point to the sky, joined at their
base by a metal strip lying along the former border. Surrounding them is a group
of saplings which are intended to grow as the oak trunks eventually rot away,
filling the space left by the death strip with life.
The Green Band has packets of grass and wild flower
seeds, gathered from the former border, to give away to the first 10 readers to
send an e-mail, in English, to alexander.purps@bund.net
With NAFTA and the European Union, increasingly borders
and barriers have taken on a diminished importance. Notably, extensive border
barrier systems designed to either repel invaders or contain populations now
exist along the North - South Korea border, in selected cities in Northern
Ireland, along the Israel - Lebanon border and now in advanced construction
phase, along the border between Israel and the West Bank - Palestinian state.
Prime Minister Ariel Sharon decided to continue this
controversial barrier system in light of the constant suicide bomber attacks of
the Intifada. The liberal wing of his cabinet declared that all this was little
better than a new version of the East German fence [click on the thumbnail below to
see picture].
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